Exploring the realm of jewelry through the perspective of a visionary artist offers a captivating journey melding time, emotion, and artistic expression. Each piece serves as a narrative, weaving together creativity and memory. Within this captivating domain, the alchemy of gold’s transformative abilities intertwines with meticulously crafted works inspired by the grace of nature and the grandeur of history. Read as we venture into the enchanting universe of jewelry design, guided by an artist whose creations seamlessly blend past and present, emotion and imagination through the eponymous brand, Beenish by Beenish Mahmood.
Gold or silver: which metal speaks to you more?
For me, the appeal lies in the flexible properties and transformative nature of gold’s metallurgy. By blending different alloys and utilizing various treatments, one can adjust its hardness and color, creating an exceptional work of art.
The most challenging piece you’ve ever designed: can you describe it?
The Leaf Demi Parure was meticulously crafted by carving the wax multiple times to create a leaf that appears to softly sway and ripple in the breeze. Every baguette diamond, intricately placed along the veins of the leaf, was custom-cut to fit the turning and undulating channels, aiming to capture a shimmering, lifelike essence as envisioned in nature.
In your opinion, what’s the most underrated gemstone to work with?
Absolutely Tourmaline. The extensive spectrum of colors it offers is truly remarkable. Furthermore, high-quality tourmaline can retain and at times surpass its value when compared to diamonds.
If your jewelry was a movie character, who would it be and why?
Arwen has been a cherished figure in my heart since my early days reading “The Lord of the Rings.” The depiction of her character in the film beautifully mirrored my imagination. The romantic elegance of her elven nature intertwined with her strong character complements the essence of my creations and Art Nouveau inspired lines.
Big, bold statement pieces or delicate, everyday jewelry: which do you enjoy creating more?
Definitely Bold statement pieces, that let my creativity and inspiration take flight.
Are there any historical jewelry eras that particularly inspire your work?
I admire unique features from various historical periods, and my style is shaped by how designs blend elements from different eras. Typically, I gravitate towards a fusion of Victorian essence, Art Nouveau lines, and a hint of Georgian flair. When seeking inspiration, I often reference vintage pieces from these periods in archival resources.
One jewelry piece from your collection you never leave home without?
The Butterfly on Pearl necklace is my everyday essential. The rose gold butterfly, luminous Keshi pearl, and delicate white diamond make it a versatile piece that complements any outfit. Its classic yet unique design allows for effortless layering with other pieces or wearing it on its own.
Vintage or modern jewelry: which style do you prefer wearing?
I value the clean, elegant lines of contemporary jewelry, blended with the emotional depth and nostalgic charm of vintage pieces. These styles are integral to my identity. Being an old soul with a modern sensibility, a fusion of both worlds is where I thrive.
If your jewelry could tell a story, what would it say?
Inspired by my poetry, my jewelry emerges from the tapestry of my memories. Capturing moments in time, of feelings of unconditional love and belonging. Each piece embodies an emotion. Each curve, color, jewel, meticulously selected and placed with intent. Through my creations, I weave a love story. An homage to the ebb and flow of life that resonates with all those who both love and are loved in return.
A gemstone color that you can’t resist using in your designs?
Pink! Always.
One jewelry designer, past or present, whom you greatly admire?
The jewelry designer whose work I’ve been most influenced by will always be Suzanne Belperron. She would famously refuse to sign her work as she believed her style was her signature. A true genius who is revered by all who appreciate jewelry as art. My favorite designer in current times is Joel Arthur Rosenthal, famously known as JAR. Exclusive and enigmatic, he crafts a limited number of pieces each year, strikingly juxtaposing pavé gems and diamonds with blackened alloy metals in his designs to create a captivating contrast.
Your favorite place to sketch new jewelry ideas?
I do my best work late at night in my studio.
The jewelry-making tool you can’t do without?
Selecting one tool is quite tricky since each serves a crucial purpose in the creative process. However, if I were to pick, I’d say Wax is indispensable. Given the organic nature of my designs, wax carving grants me the flexibility to evolve and refine my creations as they take shape.
A favorite jewelry memory from your childhood?
My father owned a significant collection of exceptional cufflinks. Among them, a vintage pair of Pasha cufflinks by Cartier captivated me the most. These beautifully designed fluted gold balls in 18k gold, crowned with a cabochon sapphire, were truly a treasure. I’d slip them in between my fingers, pretending they were rings, while engaging in animated conversations with my imaginary party guests.
Describe your creative process in three words.
Whimsical, emotional and detailed.
Follow Beenish Mahmood: @beenishmahmoodjewellery